work really well, for a fraction of the cost of a commercial Crayford I told them to take their time and get it right. Building the mirror box is tricky, because the entire optical assembly (mirror cell, mirror box, trusses, secondary cage) must balance at the center of rotation of the arms. This proved fatal for the stepper motor! wobbly knob still works, and adds character. And bolt to scope I file a dispute with Paypal to begin the process of getting my money back. Once Id built a CNC router, I embarked on my third telescope, featuring a 16 primary mirror with aluminum trusses, wide vertical bearing arcs, a steel front-adjustable mirror cell, and a rotating base. This allowed me to cut perfect identical circles. larger diameter. This focuser (see pic at bottom) was motorised by me several years ago, but the motorised system didn't give me very fine control, and the motor running at fast speed tended to make the Artemis camera crash. Pioneered by John Dobson in the 1960s, the instrument combines a Newtonian reflector telescope with a unique two-axis movable base. I drilled the holes in the center of the ground board and rocker bottom using a 9/16 bit, thinking that I needed the extra 1/16 so that the spacer could move. I We were careful to press out any bubbles as we went, but when the job was done we found that there were multiple bubbles in the veneer. The day I received the refund, I ordered a mirror cell from University Optics. I carefully cut exactly through the center of each side bearing circle to make my semicircles. the side of a rigid secondary cage. All that remained was to design and print a bracket, and buy the needed parts. that is a great website that guy has some fantastic photos. Many sources point out that 10 inches is a kind of sweet spot in the balance between power and portability. The Focuser and other items: (Scope Stuff). The mirror box encloses the mirror cell and allows the entire telescope to rotate vertically. For about $3 we can buy a tank valve kit that has a threaded 2" i.d. As I read the book I decided that I should build a 12.5 inch truss tube scope. Built one of these http://emediadesigns.com/focuser/ working really well only cost less than 40.00. Some of these are essential for the basic functionalities of our websites. Share it with us! If you found some good surplus lenses, you will have made a stunningly good objective for your scope. That evening I spent most of my time rediscovering the many DSOs around Sagittarius, especially the Lagoon Nebula and the Trifid Nebula. Your astrophotographer friend may have included his own images from his setup. occurred to me that a square turned 45 degrees would give me two flat Given any mirror measurements, PLOP will provide the ideal support layout and how much distortion to expect for any number of flotation points. Low, or Zero slop when changing direction. A free program that lights childrens creative fires and allows them to explore projects in areas such as arts & accessible by all ages and skill ranges. weight. Total cost for supplies for this project: It took a lot longer than I expected to receive my mirror and other parts from Discovery. knob, and a drill press to make sure the hole for the knitting needle A week after they said they would send the secondary and other parts, I called to ask if things had been sent. The sides were attached with wood glue and clamps with a few small brads to hold everything in place. I started with a spacer that with a inch outer diameter. 11 years ago His passion is using CAD design and his homemade CNC router to bring large wood projects to life. Or in my case, back to SolidWorks :-). I didn't receive any confirmation email after a few days, so I tried to send them an email. Here is a simple 3D printed helical focuser that cost just a few cents (assuming you have a 3D printer). You can easily, and economically (10$) build a Crayford Helical Focuser like the one pictured above in one evening with simple tools. I would love to see your build when you are finished with it . All Orion 1.25" and 2" telescope focusers are engineered to provide smooth drawtube action to ensure you hit the exact focus point . "https://ssl." Slide the eyepiece into the focuser and try it out. Interfaced with a computer, so the computer can make the decisions about where the best focus is. The focuser knob had two set screws. When you're ready to go on to testing with the windows driver, you want "myFP2_DRV8825_312-1", open that folder. Several clamps were used to hold the pieces together overnight. My secondary is 4; for tips on choosing size, click here. In my build, the cage was cut on a CNC router from plywood, with threaded T-nuts added to support a truss assembly. Just as it was about to come into focus, the focuser bottomed out. In amateur astrophotography, we run our telescopes overnight. Best Wishes, Reply After looking at many focuser options with a big range of prices, I decided to order a GSO 2 speed Crayford focuser from ScopeStuff. There are some test sketches in the "Tests" folder, start with those. Using plywood, make 4 attachment blocks to pair the trusses together and create a small ledge for the secondary cage to rest on while you secure it. by cranking So, as they say, "back to the drawing board". really stiff and light for their size, and even though a #2 is pretty I have one on my 12" f/5 truss dob and the focuser knob is on the top surface of the UTA. I ground and figured the mirror with little troubles, making my focault tester, etc. This was to allow the circle cutting jig to be attached to the board to cut the arcs from a center point of 25 inches above the ground. Look down through the empty focuser. Edited by sunrag, 28 May 2020 - 10:44 PM. Overall, I'm very happy with the outcome of this project - focusing is now a joy. Finally it was etched in caustic soda, and anodised matt black. To hold the tube in place within the tube box, I used a combination of pieces of felt inside the box and wooden shims between the tube and the box. But who cares, really? It stalled when tension on the belt increased. On the bottom of the Bottom board is a ring of Ebony Star laminate that glides over the three teflon pads located directly above the feet on the ground board. I had considered using a clear finish alone, but decided to use a dark red finish on the base and a clear finish on the tube, just because I like the look. large in diameter (1.6") so that adds to the fine-ness of the focus Well, it sort of looks like a focuser.. See pictures below. The focuser is the part of the telescope that holds the eyepiece or camera, and by moving in or out, closer or farther from the . with a genuine question or comment about the design. . A neet site: http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/CAMERAS.HTM Cool instructable, Dude! The arc at the top of the sides needed to have a radius 1/8 inch larger than that of the side bearings to account for the thickness of the teflon pads that would fit between. Two inch internal diameter drawtube. I do it with aluminium alloy, aluminium tube and nice work. var gaJsHost = (("https:" == document.location.protocol) ? Over how many nights did this photography session take place? I got no response to phone calls or emails after another week, and decided to wait until the primary would be finished in another two weeks. I also figured that the extra expense was worth it, considering the amount of money I was investing in the project overall. I built a second set of electronics, and I had the NEMA 17 Direct Drive motor left over since it didn't work for my Orion ED80T-CF refractor. Find a special something for the makers in your life. Once the pieces were cut and I held them around the tube, I decided to cut them a bit smaller because the extra space was too much. You need to order it sized for your focuser shaft size. See captioned photos 22-25 here:https://www.cloudyniractor-focuser/ for more detail on building a flush valve focuser, as Bob mentions. The Dob is really a great design. The focuser shaft on the telescope is 13.1mm in diameter. The dimensions of the Tube Box Sides are based on the outer diameter of my tube14 3/16. That way you won't be dropping your drawtube and After you've done that, put a couple of tiny pan-head screws try { As I understand, you are using it for a refractor. Thin 1/16 Kydex plastic should be cut to length to line the inside of the cage as a baffle to block outside light. I tried this one first and found it wouldn't work for my application. ill ask him for a detailed list of what he used and when i get that ill post it here for you. I have not yet figured out a better way to hold the tube. #2 knitting needle would be just about right. Crayford-style design with four bearings and one driveshaft. my thoughts naturally gravitated toward a boxy focuser to go with it. A decent machinest will do a far better job, but, there is always a lot more pleasure to be gained per astrophoto when you make bits yourself. During on-site assembly, attach each truss to its mounting T-nut using a bolt with a thumbscrew knob. This combination has the best resolution (steps/revolution), so I didn't see any reason to build anything else. To glue the side bearings and rocker sides to full thickness, I covered a side with wood glue, then carefully lined up the pieces and put two small nails into the pieces to hold them in place. The base of the telescope should be a wide, sturdy square or circle of wood with teflon bearing pads matched to the ABS plastic ring of the rocker box. My DIY Motorized Telescope Focuser - YouTube I use a 3D printer and an old gear motor to create an electronic telescope focuser.This is my first attempt at voiceover, I'm using a headset. was straight so I wouldn't get a wobbly knob. These have slop as you change direction, you can't do fine adjustments, they weigh a ton, and can flex alarmingly over time. Just drill holes in both ends and mount the lenses. var pageTracker = _gat._getTracker("UA-1008534-4"); Also, I will work with my computer geek buddies, so that we eventually automate it using Linux on a Rock64, to run kstars for tracking, on INDI. Coupler for NEMA-17 Stepper Motor (also two choices, see below), LM7808 Voltage Regulator with TO-220 package -, Mini On/Off 3-pin 2-position slide switch -, Headers and wire (miscellaneous sizes and gauges), these are important so you can replace the component if it is damaged, LM7808 voltage regulator w/TO-220 heat sink package, 2-pin headers for 12V power and on/off switch. Be creative! I only use the OTA. I am thankful to enjoy the inspiration, and the details, that you provide, as I will soon be constructing a Dobsonian Telescope. 1N5408 3A Diode (you may need to make the pins smaller to fit through the holes in the board. Since there is no drill bit that exactly matches the 13.1mm of the shaft, I had to do some rough enlargement of the hole. I wanted the long focal length for good contrast. Using a compass I drew circles on the top and bottom of the ground board to mark the inside and outside of the teflon ring on the bottom of the rocker bottom. The spider, or secondary mirror holder, will suspend the mirror in the optical path in order to direct light into the focuser. 10 years ago The last time I checked, that particular SBIG camera used on TelescopeGeek had an eight month lead time.A 20" scope gathers 2.6 times more light than a 12.5" scope, therefore equivalent exposures on this one would take 200+ minutes, at least. in the tube so they'll hit the knitting needle before your drawtube runs To cut the circles, I started with a depth of about 1/8 inch, then lowered the bit and cut a little more with each pass until I was through the board. It has become an indispensable piece of equipment for me that so beats hacking and filing PVC pipes etc. Link to the motor speed controller kit:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5225(a 5K external potentiometer will be required): http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RP3508The drive motor:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YG2734The gears:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YG2736The motor forward/reverse switch:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ST0506The push button:http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0711 Put it all together Funny how the bigger they are the better for dobs. I decided that my best option was to scale up their 8 inch design for a 12.5 inch scope and sacrifice the portability and easier storage of a truss scope for something that I felt confident in building myself. Robert is a super guy and more than willing to help those who choose to follow in his footsteps. After a dry fit of the rocker to make sure that the tube box with side bearings would fit well, I glued the rocker sides to the rocker front, holding them in place with small nails and clamping overnight. For a while I decided that 10 inch would be the best size. It may need some careful coaxing with a screwdriver. tube and nut that fits the outside threads. 11 years ago When you add the minimum distance from the eyepiece to the secondary mirror together with the distance from the secondary mirror to the primary, the total length should be the primary mirrors focal length. I do have another tube that can be used around the drawtube, but it doesn't really add anything. Earthbound1 likes this #2 dave brock Mercury-Atlas Post 10 of the same LSDF focuser thread also links to Art Bianconi's archived 2008 original flush valve focuser posts. homemade Crayford focuser. At their suggestion, I also ordered a 2.6 inch secondary mirror. once. I wanted to finish that instructable before the contest ended but was too late :-). Membership connects and supports the people and projects that shape our future and supports the learning I'm' glad I did, because I didn't like the first color that I had chosen. As the authors describe the benefits of a truss design, it is hard to dispute their arguments. This is not recommended for shared computers. While a sling or whiffletree provide the best edge support, a two-point edge support is much easier to construct. In order for the Rocker Box to pivot on the Ground Board, a center pin is placed in a hole at the exact center of the Ground Board and Rocker Bottom. I called in the order and explained that I would be using a mirror two inches thick. Slewing to find an object and then tracking an object on the sky, so when you make a homemade telescope on the motorisation process you will need high speed for slewing and low speed for tracking or fine movements.
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